Product Description
3000W x 2 Output at 4 Ohms 6000W x 1 bridged Output at 2 Ohms 2 Ohm Stable MOSFET Power Supply Variable Hi-Pass : 40 Hz-250 Hz Variable Low-Pass : 40 Hz-250 Hz Variable Input Level (Gain) Control : 6V-200mV Variable Bass Boost : 0-18dB Variable Subsonic Filter : 10Hz~100Hz, 24dB/Octave Sub Sonic Switch Thermal / Overload / Short Circuit Protection Soft Turn On/Off Power & Protection LED Indicator Low Level RCA Input : 10K Ohms Line Level RCA Output Frequency Response : 15 Hz-30K Hz Signal to Noise Ratio: >95dB THD:0.1 % 2x60 Amp Maxi Type Fuse Slim Size Amplifier Design For Easy Installation Dimensions: 10.63''W x1.78''H x 21.97''L
| List Price: | $397.99 |
| Price: |
$154.90 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details |
| as of Sun, 17 Mar 2013 03:51:21 GMT ***Remember, deals price on this item for sale just for limited time*** | |
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #7669 in Car Audio or Theater
- Brand: Lanzar
- Model: VCT2610
- Dimensions: 3.59" h x 12.60" w x 25.70" l, 1.00 pounds
Features
- 3000W x 2 output at 4 Ohms
- 6000W x 1 bridged output at 2 Ohms 2 Ohm Stable
- Frequency response: 15 Hz-30K Hz
- Signal to noise ratio: >95dB
- Thermal / overload / short circuit protection
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
30 of 35 people found the following review helpful.
By Computer Geek
6000 watts nope nada no way - false advertising.
Believe me I have 0 gauge wire going from two batteries - total over 2000 amps cranking output and over 200 amp hour rating and a 270 amp alternator giving 190 amps at idle with a 10 Farad Cap hooked up.
I knew something wasn't right when I took the amp out of the box and saw the power block on it??? WHAT 6000-8000 watt amps with wuss power connectors and two 60 amp maxi-fuses...
Explain how the laws of physics has changes where you can run that supposed amount of amperage into a connector no larger than a speaker connector?? YOU CAN NOT IT WILL MELT... I used power distribution blocks and stepped down from 0 gauge to 4 gauge and used crimp gold plated connectors to the cap and another adapter to down size the 4 gauge end so I could even hook it to the amp power block..
3000x2 at 4 ohms BS; 8000 watts at 2 OHMS Bridged BIG BS..
I am running a two 15" 4000 watts rated speakers in a vented box using the two Pyle 15" loud speakers sold here on Amazon for 96.00 each and claimed to handle 4000 watts EACH; so I have two so I should be able to run at 8000 Watts? NOPE Nada zip more false advertising..
I have the sub input turned ALL THE WAY DOWN so it doesn't trip into protection mode....
. NO BASS Boosts and when I take my head unit to about 2/3 volume??
I am using the head sub output line so I am not over driving the input signal to the amp..
The amp will almost immediately go into protected mode and shut down; this happens in a few seconds and NOT FROM OVER HEATING.
Don't get me started on how hot this amp runs at even low settings..
Running the amp at about half volume you can fry an egg on it and it has way plenty air circulation... I even put 1/2 square strips under the amp mounting feet to raise the amp off the board to get air to flow under it as well using two 12v computer case fans.. Still will burn me if I touch it after running it...
In fact the amp is sitting in front of the box vent and THAT IS BLOWING AIR AT AND OVER IT....
The pyle speaker are wired in parallel at 2.2 OHMS and then wired box connectors in parallel at at 2.9 OHMS. Then amp is hooked up in bridged mode which the manufacturers book states it can do at 2 OHMS...
I will be rewiring the speaker hookup later for two channel and see what then happens; but I don't give it much hope.
I bought the 1- Lanzar Vector 2610 amp, 2-PYLE PLD15WD speakers, Boss 10 Farad Capacitor, and Dual 15" speaker box here on Amazon..
What size/brand bettery needed for a 8000w system?
I'm about to do a system that's gonna be 8000 watts. 4000 rms. my alternator is going to be 140 amps.
"The power wire between the battery and alternator..."
Lets do some math..... Assuming 4000 watts RMS. To figure current draw, you take power times the inverse of efficiency of the amp divided by volts divided by 2.5 (the average power in music). We'll assume 80% efficient. I = ((4,000 x (1/0.8)) / 13.8) / 2.5 I = (5,000 / 13.8) / 2.5 I = 362 / 2.5 I = 144 amperes Now this 144 amperes is just to run the audio system, You need to add on another 40% to power the vehicle as well (lights, heater, etc.) so... I = 144 x 1.4 I = 202 amperes total What this all boils down to is you will need: Two Group 31 deep cycle batteries and at least a 200 amp alternator. Oh, and don't forget the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to [recommended]) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis. Got money?
**** It is clear for their own reasons that make no sense except to be TROLLS and FLAMERS are attacking me. ****
They don't contribute to this "discussion" in any constructive way; yet use moronic words and miss spellings. It is also very clear they lack the ability to even comprehend the simple written English language.
I provided what I found in regards to this amp.
Another poster called me stupid because 00 gauge wire the amp draw will cook off the insulation. These amps or any other amp even CEA certified do not pull a constant 400-600 amp draw but in surges.
I have seen allot of these morons cars burn up because they didn't wire it correctly. One common example is running the power wire from the battery and only fusing it at the amp and NOT at the battery.
These are the same morons that are going boom boom past your house at 4 AM... You look at their "car" and all you can see is a bunch of idiot "bobble" heads sticking up just past the door window edge...
These are the same morons in mommies Honda that tried drifting and broad sided my Z28 BC4 Camaro parked at the curb. My great neighbors stopped them from running away and they got a serious beat down before the cops arrived..
To those who had good questions and constructive questions I will answer those the best way I can; to the morons, go stick your heads up a dark and smelly place..
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
By BlueDragonRacer
One thing to note is in the Manual that comes with it that Amazon did not put on here is More Technical Specs so here they are.
RMS Power @4 Ohms 300 watts x2
THD @4 Ohms 450 watts x2
RMS Power @2 Ohms 600 watts x2
THD @2 Ohms 900 watts x2
Maximum Power Output @2 Ohm 6,000 watts x1
Bridged Power @4ohm 8,000 watts x1
Low Level Impendance Input: 10K Ohms
Low Level Sensitivity Input: 200mV-6V Adjustable
S/N Ratio: 95dB
Channel Separation: 65dB
Chrossover Filters-
Low Pass:40 Hz-150 Hz
High Pass:40 Hz-250 Hz
Bass Boost: 0~+18dB
Sub Sonic Filter:10-100 Hz
Stereo Mode: 2-4 Ohms
Bridged Mode: 4-8 Ohms
Fuse Size: 60A x2
Power Supply Voltage: 14.4V DC Neg. Ground (10.5-16V)
So Note that This Amp says it can do 8,000 watts not just 6,000 and so far it Feels like it can but i dont have a sub that can handle 8,000 watts once i do i will post again hope this helps any body.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
By Charles A. Smith
This amp is really a true rms 300 watt x 2 @ 4 ohm amp (true 600 watts x 2 @ 4 ohm stereo or 1200 watts rms @ 4 ohms bridged) DO NOT buy it if you think it is a 6000 watt RMS amp as it IS NOT. Lanzar chose unwisly to list it as a 6000 watt PEAK amp... a little decieving. But none the less this is a true 1200 watt amp that demands more than more factory automotive can handle. Plan on running a minimum of true 4 gauge pure copper wire and do the "big 3" upgrade. Also plan on losing some hearing if you have some good subs that can handle this amp. I give it 2 thumbs up!
1998 Haonda Accord
Stock alt (for now)
Kinetick 1800 Batt
2 gaughe to trunk
1- Kicker Solo x
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